Sunday, January 17, 2021

aladdin lamps

 aladdin lamps

they are my favorite. before LEDs or flourscents, aladdins were the only alternative to go to. i like them , not only for the 100 watt output but also because of the high temperature output. 600 degrees. you can utilize it in a number of ways. i have used a gas hotwater tank with an aladdin under it. makes a hotwater heater and gives light. i put the tank up on firebricks. the tank has a flue through it. place the lamp under the tank with the lamp chimney in the flue..... i currently have a peltier junction in the flue and a heatsink outside it.... the temp differential gives off enough electricity to run my shortwave radio..... and heat.... and light.... 


 i have had several since 1975 or so. one i had was under a old washtub stand with a piece of sheet metal as a shelf on the stand. it had a hole cut in it so i could stand the lamp under it and the flue gas went up through the hole. over the hole i put a half oak barrel. one that had already been charred inside. made a great oven...... you can cook over one too... 



i still have half a dozen lamps. i don't know if they said but i know a TIP: if you set the light too high, which is prone to happen more before the lamp gets up to temp., the mantel will turn solid ash looking like a solid piece of coal with a slight glow inside it..... do NOT dispose of the mantel.... simply turn the setting down a little and in awhile the ash will burn off and the unit will be fine.


it is also a very good bug zapper.... if you use it in insect country set it in a flat pan..... i use a pizza dish.... the temp is so high that insects get INSTANTLY ZAPPED if they so much as touch the chimney. if you are in bug country the pan will be full of insects in the morning. you don't turn aladdins off until morning. you only turn them down low at night so you have instant light if needed. when set on low they hardly use any fuel.


but they are not without drawbacks.

http://www.motherearthnews.com/natural-health/radioactive-danger-of-mantle-lamps-zmaz82ndzgoe.aspx

Saturday, May 12, 2012

Threat scenarios

 Asteroids and Comets
(The bumping against the Earth kind)
Asteroid and Comet Impact Hazards
NASA
B612 Foundation
Goal is to be able to significantly alter the orbit of an asteroid in a controlled manner by 2015
Comets
NASA
Is Earth in Danger of Being Hit by an Asteroid?
NASA
Late, Great Planet Earth, The
Investigate Magazine
Near-Earth Asteroid Tracking
NASA
Spaceguard
International, private organization that observes and tracks Near-Earth Objects (NEOs): asteroids and comets that could represent a threat to the Earth's ecosystem in case of an impact
Torino Scale
Asteroid danger scale

Earthquakes (What if The Big One later turns out to have been The Small One?)
Earthquake Hazards Program
USGS
Earthquakes
U.S. Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA)
Earthquakes
Extensive information from the San Francisco Chronicle
Do's and Don'ts Putting Down Roots in Earthquake Country Make your own preparedness kit Make your home safe Earthquake Preparation
Red Cross
Earthquakes
U.S. Geological Survey
National Earthquake Information Center
U.S. Geological Survey (USGS)
Restless Planet, The: Earthquakes
From PBS television's Savage Earth series
Syzygy
Earthquake prediction online
Yahoo - Earthquakes and Volcanoes
News stories

Economic Crash
Great Depression, The
Public Broadcasting System (PBS)
Greatest Market Crashes of History
From tulip bulb to dot.com
Stock Market Crash
PBS
Urban Survival.com
Anticipating economic collapse - long wave economic news

Floods
Floods
U.S. Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA)
Floods
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA)
Flood and Flash Flood Preparation
Red Cross
Map of Flood and High Flow Conditions
U.S. Geological Survey


Gas (Methane) Hydrates (Hah! Here's one we bet you hadn't been worrying about. Well, you can now.)
Civilization Could End in a Giant Methane Belch
Toronto Globe and Mail
Gas (Methane) Hydrates—A NEw Frontier
U.S. Geological Survey (USGS)
National Methane Hydrate R&D Program
U.S. Dept. of Energy
Gas Hydrate Studies
USGS
Methane Hydrates Could Strongly Amplify Global Warming
Greenpeace

Global Warming
(Resulting in at least five other calamities)
A Modest Proposal to Save the Planet
Contraction and Convergence—Decreasing global emissions of carbon dioxide with justice and fairness
Abrupt Climate Change
Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution
Apocalypse Now: How Mankind is Sleepwalking to the End of the Earth
-
Are We on the Brink of a New "Little Ice Age"?
-
Ocean Monitoring Systems
-
Should We Be Worried Climate
From Columbia University's Earth Institute
EPA Global Warming Site
U.S. Environmental Protection Agency
How Global Warming May Cause the Next Ice Age
By Thom Hartmann
Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change
Established by the World Meteorological Organization and the United Nations Environment Programme
Pentagon Abrupt Climate Change Study
- Global Business Network comments with link to PDF file
Gulf Stream Shutdown (When the new European summer looks a lot like the old European winter—on a bad day)
Gulf Stream Shutdown
Comprehensive metadirectory of information on Gulf Stream Shutdown—websites, articles, books, news

Hail
Hail
National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA)
Hail
National Weather Service
Hailstorms
Chase Day

Heat Waves
Extreme Heat
FEMA
Heat Wave Preparation
Red Cross


Hurricanes and Typhoons
(If you live in Florida, you may have heard of these)

The terms "hurricane" and "typhoon" are regionally specific names for a strong "tropical cyclone".

Tropical cyclones with maximum sustained surface winds of less than 39 mph are called "tropical depressions" Once the tropical cyclone reaches winds of at least 39 mph they are typically called a "tropical storm" and assigned a name. If winds reach 74 mph), they are called:
"hurricane" (the North Atlantic Ocean, the Northeast Pacific Ocean east of the dateline, or the South Pacific Ocean east of 160E)
"typhoon" (the Northwest Pacific Ocean west of the dateline)
"severe tropical cyclone" (the Southwest Pacific Ocean west of 160E or Southeast Indian Ocean east of 90E)
"severe cyclonic storm" (the North Indian Ocean)
"tropical cyclone" (the Southwest Indian Ocean)
Frequently Asked Questions
NOAA
Hurricane Preparation
Red Cross
Hurricanes
NOAA
Hurricanes
U.S. Federal Emergency Management Agency (FEMA)
Hurricanes
U.S. Geological Survey
National Hurricane Center
U.S.National Weather Service

Landslides Landslides
FEMA
Landslides
U.S. Geological Survey

Lightning Lightning
NOAA
A Lightning Primer
NASA
How Lightning Works
How Stuff Works
Lightning Safety
National Weather Service

Nuclear War
(Use 'em or lose 'em. U.S., U.K., Russia, France, Israel, Iran, India, Pakistan, China, North Korea—join the club)
Effects of a Global Thermonuclear War Effects of Nuclear War
Federation of American Scientists
Exposing the U.S. Nuclear War Plan
National Resources Defense Council
Helen Caldicott
Long-time advocate for disarmament
International Physicians for the Prevention of Nuclear War
Activist anti-nuclear group
List of Countries with Nuclear Weapons
Wikipedia
Nuclear War Survival Skills
Free online book
Nuclear Warfare
Wikipedia
Nuclear Weapon Archive
A guide to nuclear weapons
Nuclearfiles.org
Everything you need to know about nuclear age history

Nuclear accident

FUKUSHIMA is happening



Peak Oil

The world's societies are needing more and more oil. We're about to be producing less and less. Do the reasoning
DryDipstick
This site will direct you to everything you need to know about Peak Oil. News and commentary, websites, books, articles, VDDs, Internet forums, community groups

Pestilence
(Noticed any interesting new diseases lately?)
Bird Flu Protection Coming Plague, The
Book by award-winning writer Laurie Garrett on newly emerging diseases in a world out of balance
Dead Zone, The
Seven bodies buried in the Artic tundra might solve the riddle of the worst flu pandemic in history -- and might help us prevent it from happening again
Influenza 1918
PBS
Influenza Pandemic of 1918, The Influenza Pandemics
Centers for Disease Control (CDC)
List of Epidemics / Pandemics
Wikipedia
Next Influenza Panic, The
Article by pediatrician
Pandemic Influenza
U.S. Dept of Health and Human Services
Pandemics
From MedMall.org
Pandemics and Pandemic Scares in the 20th Century
U.S. Dept of Health and Human Services
Plagues and People
Book on the influence of infectious diseases on the course of history
Spanish Flu
Wikipedia

Monday, April 2, 2012

Sitrep: Fukushima

          



               This photo POSITIVE PROOF of PYROPHORIC fuel burn at fukushima.

SITREP: the quake and tsunami damaged 14 reactors. of those Five are still barely under control. Four of the five are still on emergency generator for thier cooling power. they are one quake away from meltdowns.
the japanese government, TEPCO and the U.S. government tried to cover up everything, but they have started releasing the truth in the last couple weeks.
there were THREE MELTDOWNS, maybe four. They still don't know about one.
THREE MELTDOWNS that have been confirmed. they have NO IDEA where those three reactor cores are.
ONE CORE has gone CHINA SYNDROME FOR SURE. they only say it is "OUT OF THE BUILDING"
All three are belching radiation as of this writing.
at least one has probably blown out into the Pacific ocean. the reactors were only a couple hundred yards from the sea. Japan lifts out of the sea as steep bluffs underwater. No one will confirm this but they do report about "mysterios boiling" of the sea adjacent to the site.
For the last couple of weeks they have been reporting, and showing on cam, periodic belching of dense smoke from the site.
I am ALONE in positing that the cores have reached groundwaterand become RADIOACTIVE GEYSERS.
The middle 1/3 of the main Island is now irradiated far beyond historic levels for evacuation zones like Chernobyl .
the radiation is SPREADING and is now south of Tokyo.
TOKYO is now at radiation levels 10 times above the Fukushima mandatory evacuation zone and 25 times above the Chernobyl evacuation zone. everyone in the main island has the "flue" which is the first symptom of radiation sickness. some have died. so far it has been cleanup workers ( five officially ), infants and the elderly. the official cause is PNUEMONIA. Hospitals refuse to treat radioactive patients.
Neighboring countries are reporting rising radiation levels in thier air and seafood.
Japanese products are being refused because they are radioactve. Especially by countries which experienced the results of Chernobyl.
Each time the geyser spouts there follows a RADIOACTIVE BLACK RAIN over a widespread area.
RECENTLY released U.S. reports, that were previously suppressed, showed there was WIDESPREAD contamination, 700% above normal, in the U.S.. from Alaska to Los Angelos. especially west of the rockies which seem to be slowing the weather and making the fallout fall.
 it has been detected in lesser amounts all the way across the canada/u.S. border area and has been detected in Europe too.
the saving grace for japan has been that the prevailing winds are offshore. but that presents a different set of problems.
the California sized debris field from the tsunami, on which the largest radiation releases fell, have already started arriving on beaches of the west coast of north america. everytime the geyser spouts the northwest get elevated radiation readings a few days later.
NOTHING IS BEING DONE!
NOTHING CAN BE DONE!
They have ABANDONED TO CHANCE at least THREE REACTORS.
There is NO END IN SIGHT for radiation releases.
increased  radiation levels in the northern hemisphere are certain.
Tokyo is toast !
Japan is toast!
soon the WEST Coast of North America will be toast !
later NORTH AMERICA will be toast !
then the Northern Hemisphere will be toast !

Fukushima is an EXTINCTION LEVEL EVENT !

GOOD LUCK !

update: third anniversary

the truth is getting out slowly. still now mention of the pyrophoric fuel burn.

http://enenews.com/former-energy-dept-official-people-tokyo-getting-yearly-radiation-dose-about-10-minutes-radioactive-gases-leaving-rate-300-day-instead-1-assumed-designer-audio

http://enenews.com/caldicott-all-of-japan-has-been-contaminated-by-fukushima-realistic-estimate-is-60000-km2-occupied-by-46-million-people-things-are-grim-it-gets-worse-by-the-day-unheard-of-in-hist

http://enenews.com/award-winning-science-project-finds-high-radiation-levels-seafood-purchased-canada-many-samples-actionable-level-contamination-incredible-discovery-unexpected-be-lurking-canadian-waters-belie

http://enenews.com/radio-surprisingly-high-concentrations-fukushima-cesium-found-vancouver-area-because-movement-ocean-currents-june-last-year-increasing-levels-found-be-hotspots-radiation-concentrate-chances-h

http://enenews.com/mit-professor-us-experts-japan-must-act-now-to-seal-fukushima-reactors-before-its-too-late-concern-us-to-be-affected-by-explosions-a-chain-reaction-engulfing-reactors-one-to-four

http://enenews.com/gundersen-video-confirms-worst-fears-scientist-reactor-core-materials-found-almost-500-km-fukushima-plant-40000000000000000000-bqkg-travel-very-very-significant-distances-hot-particles-fou

Sunday, December 11, 2011

FOOD

The basic ssurvival food has traditionally been BREADS

GAULLETTE

every morning of my life, until grown, and every morning of my
fathers life we had the same thing for breakfast. GAULETTE and bacon
strips. as did everyone in the family before now.
no one in the family knew where the tradition came from... until i
got online. it turns out GAULETTE was the basic staple of the
FRENCH NAVY. since i am a direct descendant of the founder of canada
who in turn was a canadian voyageur ( thats the guys who paddled the
giant canoes across canada in the heyday of the fur trade) that was,
as most were, french naval veterans it became obvious where the
tradition came from. the voyageurs only traveled with the basics.
they lived from GAULETTE and foraged game, berries, honey etc.
GAULETTE ( pronounced gaw-let ) is a flatbread that is cooked in a
fry pan. it was easy to make on a flat rock over the fire. we still
eat it ocassionally for nostalgia. here is how to make/eat it.

GAULETTE
in a mixing bowl dry mix
1/2 cup whole wheat
1/2 cup white flour
1/2 tsp salt
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
when mixed
add 1/2 cup milk ( or water but milk is better)
stirring as added until dough consistancy. stir until dough BREAKS
AWAY from the bowl.
remove dough glob and powder it with flour to non-stick.

pre-heat cast iron skillet.
lubricate with 1 tbsp butter
place dough ball in skillet and FLATTEN it to less than an inch
thick.
brown BOTH SIDES well mashing it down as it browns till done.

while the original GAULETTE was made with water and bacon fat for
the skillet using milk and butter makes for a much tastier result.

it is served by placing the big round bread in the center of the
table. diners break off pieces and DIP in the syrup of choice.
honey, maple syrup, black strap molasses etc.

GAULETTE the old time french navy survival bread.

HARDTACK

 The traditional survival biscuit was HARDTACK.

Make Your Own union hardtack
Here are recipes that will help you eat like a Union or Confederate soldier.
what to do
1. Mix all ingredients together. Make sure
you add enough flour so that the dough
is no longer sticky, but be careful not to make
it too dry. Knead the dough a few times.
During the war, hardtack was about half
an inch thick, so when you’re rolling the
dough, aim for this thickness. It is easiest to
roll the dough directly on an ungreased cookie sheet. Bake at 350 degrees
for about 30 minutes.
2. Remove the dough from the oven, cut the large square into
smaller three-by-three-inch squares. Poke 16 evenly spaced
holes in each square. Flip, return to the oven, and bake for
another 30 minutes. Turn the oven off, and allow the hardtack to cool in the
oven with the door closed. Allow to completely cool, and then enjoy!
Variation: Soldiers often soaked their hardtack in leftover water
from boiling their meat. This softened the hardtack, and
also gave it some flavor. They would then fry the softened
hardtack in pork grease. The end result tasted something
like a crouton and was called “skillygallee.”
Let’s Get Started
what you’ll need
H 2 cups of flour
H Z\x to C\v cup water
H salt (5–6 pinches)
H bowl
H rolling pin
H cookie sheet

Firestarters

ya gotta have fire. if you're gonna survive. theres numerous was to make it from improvised indigenious methods. everyone has thier favorite way. there are many more modern ways to do it. all you need is a SPARK eh? KEEP those "empty" disposable lighters. i mean they're just free sparklights eh? scatter them around. drop any a pinch of TINDER or better yet gunpowder from a .22 shell dropped in the burners hole will give a sure FIRE every time. scatter .22's throughout your kit. a few grains of powder aids any firestarting effort. i've tried about all ways. the most impressive was the BLAST MATCH device. i wore one around my neck for a couple years. thats how impressed i was. i have them in all my vehicles gloveboxs, my tool boxes and my packs and most of my coats. i lucked out in 1999 and got a case @$5ea. in the preY2K sales. i try to never be very far from one. every serious kit needs one.

With the ability to start a fire being a primary survival necessity, fire starter is an important asset. While a lighter, or even matches in many cases, can be used  when push comes to shove what you need is a reliable artificial flint style fire starter as your ultimate back-up. For a long time the Four Seasons Survival "Spark-Lite" (left in photo) was the only such product available (Retail: $6 to $7). Recently, Ultimate Survival Technologies (FKA Survival Inc.) came out with their Ultimate Survival brand "BlastMatch" (right in photo) one-hand fire starter (Retail: $20). We'll examine the two products and compare their advantages and disadvantages. With the exception that they both produce sparks with which to start a fire, there are few other similarities. They are a study in contrast and differing philosophies.
One thing they do both have in common is that they are both used by the U.S. military. They also both come with a limited lifetime guarantee from companies that, in our experience, are committed to customer service.

Spark-Lite

The Spark-Lite device, itself, is very small and light, 2 1/4 x 9/32 x 9/32 inches (58 x 7 x 7 mm), 0.02 oz. (5 gr.). As can be seen in the photo, it is not much bigger than a few small wooden matches bundled together, a design goal so that it could fit into a standard waterproof G.I. (or similar sized) match container, if desired. The serrated wheel at the top rubs on a small flint that is encased in the plastic body (available in blaze orange or OD). The flint is spring loaded to maintain contact with the wheel. In concept it is nothing more sophisticated that the sparking mechanism used in cigarette lighters for years, just repackaged into a convenient and durable form factor, and making a lot more sparks.
Despite the small size, the manufacturer claims upwards of 1,000 lights from the unit. In our experience, we have used one Spark-Lite to light at least a hundred fires and demonstrations over the past few years, so from a survival perspective, you're not going to run out of spark.
The sparks generated are not a huge shower like you might get from a large artificial flint and steel, though certainly up to the task provided good tinder is available. That brings us to the second part of the Spark-Lite, the Spark-Lite "Fire-Tabs." The Spark-Lite comes packaged in a flip-top plastic container (available in blaze orange or OD) just a bit bigger than a small box of matches, 2 1/2 x 1 1/16 x 11/16 inches (64 x 42 x 18 mm). Inside are also included eight "Fire-Tab" tinders. Total weight for the complete kit is only 2/3 oz (19 gr.). This tinder, approximately 1 1/8 x 3/8 x 3/8 inches (30 x 10 x 10 mm), is fibrous bound cotton impregnated with a combination of beeswax, petroleum and silicone. It is waterproof and catches fire readily, burning with a moderate flame for an average of 2 minutes. The tinder can be sliced in half and will still be adequate for most fire starting requirements. It is also available separately in bagged packages of ten ($2.50).
For best results, illustrated in the enclosed instructions, you should pull it apart, using your fingers or by snaring it on a stick or rock or using your teeth, to expose the fine inner fibers, providing a less dense medium which aids in catching the sparks and in burning hotter. For packing in minimum space, such as in small personal pocket-size survival kits, the tinder can be compressed quite a bit, rolled or flattened, with only minor deterioration in effectiveness, though it requires a bit more care to fluff it up before use and it's difficult to get it quite as fluffed-up as if it had not been compressed.
Spark-Lite in actionAs can be seen in the animated GIF, operation is simple and obvious, hold the body with a couple fingers and stroke the sparking wheel with the thumb or index finger, whichever is easier. With heavy mittens on this can be somewhat difficult due to the small size of the Spark-Lite. Using the included tinder, we have never failed to light it on the first or second stroke. Results with natural or improvised tinder have been almost as good, though care must be taken that the tinder is fine enough in some cases. In years of using this tool we've never failed to get a fire going, no matter the weather or conditions.
If there is one thing we'd like to see, it would be some manner of lanyard attachment, both for the whole kit and the Spark-Lite itself. Never hurts to be able to secure something as important as your fire starter. You can always drill a hole in the case and the body of the fire starter if desired.
The detailed instructions provided in the case include illustrations depicting fluffing up the tinder and operation of the Spark-Lite, along with detailed text instructions. The instructions are easy to read and understand. A minimum of fire starting hints are provided. Printed only on one side, it's a shame they didn't take advantage of all the blank space on the other side to provide more fire starting hints.

BlastMatch

The BlastMatch is much larger and heavier than the Spark-Lite, 4 x 1 3/8 x 7/8 inches (102 x 34 x 22 mm), 2 3/4 oz. (78 gr). It long oval shaped molded plastic body incorporates a 2 1/2 inch (65 mm) long by 1/2 inch (13 mm) diameter rod of commercially prepared flint that is spring loaded. When the cap is released the spring forces the flint rod out, exposing 1 7/8 inches (48 mm) outside of the case. The cap is retained by side rails and pivots around to the "bottom" of the case where it is out of the way. The molded side catch for the cap incorporates a carbide scraper. The body includes a lanyard slot.
BlastMatch in operationOperation of the BlastMatch is straightforward. An instruction sheet is included inside the box within which it is packaged for sale, but there are no illustrations, the printing is so tiny you virtually need a magnifying glass to read it, and the sheet does not store in the device. Normal procedure is to hold the fire starter next to the tinder with the tip of the flint rod on a hard object such as a stone or piece of wood. While applying pressure to the side catch with your thumb, push down on the body, forcing the scraper inside the catch to scrape down the flint, producing an abundance of sparks, as seen in the animated GIF.
When we first tested the BlastMatch (the ones pictured in all these photos) we took note of a minor problem with early production units. Because there was no rod stop, it was natural to shove the body all the way down until it hit whatever you were pushing against. This occasionally ended up breaking the end piece of the catch and the cap would then no longer stay closed. While this had no adverse effect on its functioning as a fire starter, it would be annoying and could make storage somewhat of a problem afterwards.
Survival Inc. subsequently redesigned the body so that there is a stop to prevent the case from contacting the surface on the down stroke and they also beefed up the catch, just to make sure it would better withstand any abuse. These changes have solved the problems we encountered.
If there is no firm surface available to use, or if you need to light a fire from a greater distance, such as if using gasoline or similar highly flammable materials to start the fire, it is also possible to operate the device by holding the catch down with your thumb and forcing the flint up into the case with your index finger. While this works, it virtually always results in minor discomfort or burns from the sparks hitting the end of the index finger if protection, such as a glove, is not used. If both hands are available, you can always resort to using a knife edge on the flint as you would do with a conventional piece of commercial flint. The bulk and operating mode of the BlastMatch make it relatively easier to use while wearing heavy mittens.
The BlastMatch is aptly named and the massive shower of sparks makes this a very effective fire starter, no question about it. We had no problem lighting fires with a variety of natural and improvised tinder. We also tested the manufacturer's commercially prepared tinder which they market as "WetFire Fire Starting Tinder," sold in a box of ten ($6) This tinder was developed originally for use with the Strike Force fire starter which was also designed and produced by Survival Inc. and then marketed by Gerber for a while. In that design the rather bulky body of the fire starter had room to store a piece of the tinder. Not so the case with the BlastMatch, tinder must be carried separately.
The tinder, which is essentially the same material found in larger cubes sold as a fire starter for charcoal barbecue grills, is packaged in small clear lightweight molded plastic containers, 1 3/16 x 5/8 x 5/8 inches (32 x 15 x 15 mm), with a larger lip. The "top" is peeled off the lip to get at the tinder, though occasionally the whole plastic film encased piece comes out and the thin airtight protective casing must be ripped or cut open, not a big deal. This tinder deteriorates with exposure to air, so the airtight packaging is necessary and care must be taken when packing that it is not punctured.
The solid, waterproof tinder is most effective when at least a small amount is scraped or shaved into a small pile before lighting, though it will work fine if just roughed up a bit and will usually light right off even if not prepped at all, though sometimes it was hesitant to do so the first time. It catches fire readily, from any source, and burns with a high flame. A whole cube burns for approximately 4 minutes, about half of that with maximum output, the remainder at considerably reduced levels. If the whole cube is not required, usually the case, the rest will keep for 30-60 days exposed to the atmosphere when fresh, though this period diminishes as the tinder ages in long term storage over a period of years. With the exception of the need to be stored in an airtight package, it is superb tinder, easy to use with a high flame and long lasting.

Conclusions

Spark-Lite (left) - BlastMatch (right)This is a classic case of two products with a common purpose whose basic design, and the philosophy behind them, lends them to slightly different uses and markets. Both are excellent fire starters, neither is perfect. The ideal single-handed fire starter would be the size of the Spark-Lite with the spark producing capability of the BlastMatch. We're not going to hold our breath.
The experienced outdoors person will not have any trouble operating either fire starter. We like the better instructions included with the Spark-Lite, which would be a boon to the inexperienced, though as noted, there is room for improvement. Anyone who would need the instructions for either of these fire starters will likely need all the help they can get. Illustrations accompanying any textual instructions are always an advantage for the novice.
The instructions provided with the BlastMatch are barely adequate and in need of much improvement, both with regards to legibility and content. While there is no way to package the instructions within the BlastMatch itself, they could at least do a much better job with the ones provided. In a survival kit they could be attached to the body with tape or rubber bands, or the BlastMatch left packaged in its box with the instruction sheet.
Comparing the tinders, the WetFire is, by a significant margin, the most effective, but the Fire-Tab is no slouch, being perfectly adequate in our experience. Obviously, the packaging and storage requirements of the WetFire come into play in some circumstances, whereas the Fire-Tab is more accommodating of storage, both in terms of space and abuse. Of course, the Fire-Tab comes with the Spark-Lite and stores in the small case while the WetFire must be purchased and stored/carried separately, a potential drawback from a personal carry standpoint. The Fire-Tab also holds the edge in price at about one third the cost, though the WetFire isn't likely to bankrupt anyone ($2.50 vs $6). Again, like the fire starters themselves, two good products performing the same function, but fulfilling slightly different needs.
The Spark-Lite is very small and very lightweight and a complete one-handed fire starting kit, including tinder, in one small package. Individually, the Spark-Lite and tinder can be packaged into other small packages, such as a personal pocket-size survival kit, providing maximum capability in minimum space and weight. If minimum size or weight is a concern for you, this is your choice. Its disadvantage is that is requires a bit more care and finesse if you should happen to run out of prepared tinder or don't have any, in an effort to make do with the bare minimum, just the Spark-Lite itself.
The BlastMatch is, simply put, a more effective fire starter for general purpose use. It is somewhat bulky and heavy, which is a disadvantage for some. On the other hand, for many it doesn't matter and the massive sparking capability of the BlastMatch might be a real advantage in some circumstances. It certainly requires less finesse to use with natural or found tinder simply because it generates such a tremendous avalanche of sparks. It is hard to imagine the sort of feeble capabilities that a person would have to possess (though such people no doubt exist) to not be able to get a fire started using the BlastMatch.
Finally, we come to the matter of value. For only $6 to $7, the Spark-Lite kit is a bargain. The BlastMatch, at $20 with no tinder, is hardly that sort of bargain, but it isn't expensive and provides decent value for what you get, if it suits your purposes. Compared to the cost of a simple bar of 1/2 inch diameter man-made flint, the added functionality is well worth it.
The bottom line is that both the Spark-Lite and BlastMatch work quite well and do exactly what they are designed to do. Both are well made and that's a welcome feature when considering survival equipment upon which your life may someday depend. All you have to do is pick the one that best suits your needs and requirements.

Another One-Handed Fire Starter

Ranger Rick's "Dog Tag Fire Starter" (left) is another one-handed fire starter introduced in 2002. It is similar in concept to the Spark-Lite. It is a bit more compact in some respects and was originally designed to be worn on a necklace. It also requires some minor assembly before it's ready for use.
Click here for an expanded evaluation of Ranger Rick's Dog Tag Fire Starter
I HAVE USED ALL of the above.

Including a plain/bare ferrocerium rod.
But my ALLTIME FAVORITE is the METAL MATCH a.k.a. PERMANENT MATCH. It is inexpensive and small enough for your keychain or to include in a ALTOID survival kit. there are many diferent ones. some round, some rectangular. My preference is rectangular because it fits nicely in an ALTOIDS CAN. Metal matches are fuel resevoirs that contain a small wand shaped sheathed wick, which sscrews insdie of the fuel resevoir. there is a ferrocerium rod attached to the edge of the resevoir. to light you remove the candle and strike it's metal tip on the rod. the sparks created light the candled wick.
when you initially fill one, give the first load a few seconds to be absorbed. put the candled wick in the fuel for a couple seconds then top off the resevoir. they can usse ANY IMFLAMMABLE LIQUID. they work great on gasoline. They light thousands of time on one filling.
TIP: when holding the resevoir while striking. HOLD FINGER OVER HOLE and hold it hole UP.. this helps conserve fuel as well as eliminate any likelyhood of accidently setting fire to the resevoir.

They are inexpensive costing about $5 ea. but sell for $1 ea. wholesale 10 unitss or more.
 Other firestarters make Sparks. This one MAKES FIRE!



here is  how to use a metal match. 

Survival stave

probably the FIRST THING you will want to make is in a classs all by itself. FEW "experts" even mention it. it is the STAVE. not only can it be used as depicted but also as a shooting monopod, shaft for spear or GIG but as a self-defence weapon as well. they make modern ones that collapse down to the size of a swagger stick/baton.




WATER

 you can live a long time without food. but not long without water.
before the advent of gadgetry the way we did it was this. we'd simply
filter the water through out Tee shirt. if we were near sand we'd
use sand too. then we'd hard boil it for at least three minutes and
then drop in a few coals from the fire to bring back the taste.
heres some tips.. a SPONGE is a great device to collect water with.
have one in your bag.
you can BOIL water in a PLASTIC CONTAINER as long as you don't let it sit
directly on the coals. the water dissipates the heat so the plastic
doesn't melt. you don't have to boil the water. low grade heat for a
longer time works. ez to do with solar.
 carry a SHEET OF CLEAR plastic. it has many uses. you
can use it to make a solar collector to steralize water. you can dig
a hole and put a cup etc. in the middle of it and cover the hole
with the plastic. put a stone in the middle on top and seal the
edges with soil. the water in the earth will heat up and distill on
the undersideof the plastic and drip into the cup. if you have a
supply of water ( even saltwater) you can re-plenish the earths
water by pouring some into the hole ocassionally. you can also use
the plastic sheet to collect rainwater by doing the same thing but
punch a small hole where the stone comes to a rest in the center of
the plastic so the rainwater drips into the cup or canteen or
whatever. next we cover DEVICES for water acquisition.

i use COLLOIDAL SILVER as a dis-infectant. and don't forget just AERATING the water helps to kill bacteria too. just shake h..l out of it. and for longer term/stationary waterfiltration consider this
http://www.potpaz.org/pfpfilters.htm
i have never owned one but have seen them milsurp but some armies ( canadian i think?) used a water filter BAG that was simply dense weave cotton denim, sewn into a long bag. they filled it with water, added dis-infectant and hung it up. the bottom end was sewn at an downward angle and cut so that the filtered water would drip from the corner. they filled it with water and hung it up with a catchment container under it. put more likely everyone would just hold thier canteen under the stream of water. MAKE YOUR OWN. it's simply a blue jean leg open on one end, sewn at a downward angle at bottom, cut off the angle. put in a paracord cinch at the top. supply several people with filtered water. costs negligable, rolls up fits in pack.
then theres the $2 water filters at wallyworld. they are like two 2gal plastic milkjugs one atop the other with a activated charcoal filter element between them. pour unfiltered water in and get filtered water out the faucet in the bottom of the lower one.
while this will do a good job of filtering the water and you can add dis-infectant after, the filter elemnt won't last long if you filter dirty water with it. theres a better way to utilize this device. whats good about the charcoal element is that it restores the flavor to water. so i have used them like this.... filter water first. pastuerize next. and pour the result through the charcoal last adding dis-infectant as a precaution.
they make floaters for spas that use SILVER and COPPER bb's in an depletable elemnt to dis-infect the water. i put a couple silver bb's in each of my canteen/water carriers. even in storage. just for safe measure. i also have a small homemade solar colloidal silver generator that i carry in my pack.
i use re-cycled dis-posable aluminized plastic bladders like commonly
found in BOXED WINE etc. they are suprisingly rugged ( you can cut one
but it's difficult to tear one) are insulated and have a little faucet
at the bottom. they fold up small. i stash them EVERYWHERE.in all my
vehicles, coats packs etc. to carry them i use blue lean legs sewn at
the bottom as already posted. with the bladder of filtered water
stored in the wet denim bag it acts like a COOLER to boot.

ps. the water will smell/taste like wine for a loooong time :).